Look!

It's just like my favorite Printzregentstorte!



I'm trying to work up the courage to bake a Buche De Noel. Maybe I'll bring it to a Christmas party so I don't wind up eating it all by myself.

Bolognese 100% Better

What if you could make a bolognese sauce that would make an Italian mama weep? There's a secret and I'm going to tell you. But first, let's reminisce.

When I went traveling through northern Italy two summers ago, we got to stop in Bologna, Italy. Bologna, where people come for the fat. We had some divine eating there. However, the dish and meal we remember the best was a place where they served us Osso Bucco Bolognese.

We were already fans of the traditional Osso Bucco served Milanese style with its charming citrusy notes and rich marrow goodness. But the bolognese styled Osso Bucco blew us away and still remains one of our best meals of all time.

In any event. We mustered up the courage to try to replicate the Osso Bucco bolognese and after researching we proceeded as such:

Bolognese with Veal Shanks

Take two to three veal shanks (1.5 lbs to 2 lbs) and pat them so they're nice and dry. Then shake some flour over them to coat. Saute the suckers in a creuset over a medium high heat which you can put later in the oven. When they're nice and brown on all sides (3-5 minutes each side), remove, and make your regular bolognese recipe. Remember that using veal stock or fond will also greatly aid your chances of a great bolognese. Then, place the veal shanks and juices into the bolognese sauce. Bring the sauce to a boil, and then bake in the oven with the closed lid for 2-3 hours.

Enjoy! I have used the sauce with an "orzo" risotto with white wine and lemon butter, parsley and parmesan, and over macaroni for an oven baked gratin. All superbly delicious. 100% better bolognese, I promise!

To live by the sea

Sundays are often soup days at my place, and I had tried a delicious soup called Aziminu, the Corsican version of bouillabaisse, from the local Corsican restaurant (St. Campoloro) and I was overwhelmed by how much I loved the savory combination of seafood, tomato, and garlic galore.



Right before they served the dish, they sprinkled a whole palmful of grated pecorino cheese. If you know Italians, it's quite frowned upon to combine cheese and seafood, but the Corsicans, they did it gleefully. And it was fantastic.

When researching recipes for my own version of Aziminu, I mourned the fact that I had no tiny crabs, fish or cuttlefish (all part of the original recipe) for stock. The secret to a great bouillabaisse always begins in the stock (as Julia Child would have pointed out).

This is one of those labor-of-love dishes, but well worth it!

Aziminu
Serves around four?

Stock:
generous glug of olive oil (5 TB?)
one large onion chopped
two large shallots chopped
six fennel stalks chopped
two celery stalks chopped
three bay leaves
1 t of red pepper flakes or a small thai dried chili
one teaspoon dried thyme or fresh thyme sprigs
one head of garlic smashed
3 T clam stock granules (alternatively 3 bottles of clam juice)
1/2 c (1 dl) of stock made from shrimp shells with head*
fish stock (you can buy this in cube form or a fond)
six cups (around 15 dl) of boiling water
1 can of your best tomatoes (we use Mutti, but I've heard San Marzano is good too)

Seafood:
800 g (1 1/2 pounds) boned cod
300 g peeled shrimp
optional: tiny mussels scrubbed and bearded

Vegetables for the soup:
5 TB olive oil
1 leek chopped rinsed thoroughly only the white and light green parts
1 red pepper deseeded and sliced thinly
3-4 c boiling water

Garnish:
one large lump of pecorino grated
rouille -- a garlicky mayonnaise with cayenne and chili pepper and anchovies

*to make shrimp stock, use the shrimp peel and pour boiling water over it and let it steep for five minutes. Use a sieve to extract the "shrimp broth".

Saute the onions and shallots in olive oil in a large stockpot for around ten minutes. Add the fennel, celery, garlic, and spices and fry until fragrant (about a minute or two). Then add the can of tomatoes, the fish fond, clam broth, and shrimp broth along with the boiling water (less if you are using clam juice or fish stock).

Though the original recipe asked for a shorter simmer, I simmed this stock for two and a half hours. Then I sieved the stock.

In soup pot saute in a generous glug of olive oil (5 Tb?) the leek and the red pepper. After a few minutes add the stock and taste it. From that add more boiling water until the flavor is correct. Bring to a boil. Add the cod in whole filets for five minutes then take the cod out of the soup and place it in the individual bowls. Do the same for the shrimp and/or mussels.

Garnish with a generous handful of pecorino and spoon of rouille.

For getting your daily garlic intake, there's no better soup!

One Bad Day

As someone interested in being a locavore, you can't rule out the positives of hunting. Being from southern California, for most of my life, I've assumed food comes from the supermarket. So after foraging for wild berries and mushrooms, hunting doesn't come up too far behind. Particularly on the island where I spent my weekends, there are many deer who carry ticks (lyme disease!), and eat up and destroy all of our gardening efforts (rest in peace peony bushes).

Not coincidentally, other locavores are also coming to the same conclusion. We started with perhaps hands-on gardening, and then started thinking about the repercussions of mass produced meats both on the planet and our health.

The NY Times profiles a local deer hunting class.

I, similarly, was invited to my first hunt. There's a forthcoming article about my experience hunting somewhere in here, but I'll just comment for today that I enjoyed during the NY Times video. Especially the point the local deer hunting class teacher made about how the deer have had a good life running around, (eating all our apples), etc, and then they have one bad day. If you've ever seen any footage of supposed "free range" chickens and eggs, one bad day is infinitely preferable to a whole lifetime of bad days.

Buttery Waffle Goodness

Today's product profile is Jules Destrooper, a Belgium biscuit maker that makes the most enchanting butter waffle cookies in the existence of the world.



The Belgians really know their butter waffles. These are a perfect foil for ice-cream and various other desserts because of their crisp, but satisfying crunch. The only struggle really is not to eat them all.

In a Bee House

Though this post isn't meant to go on in raptures about the qualities of honey, which is what I did yesterday to O, since this is cold/flu season and honey is the sore throat's best friend; the Bee House isn't about honey, but rather its companion -- tea.

When I'm home alone, I can't get through a whole 4-6 person teapot by myself. Unless I knit that tea mitten (a wooly outfit for a teapot), it doesn't stay warm long enough for me to drink it, so I'm thinking of getting a more petite pot.

Like this one from Bee House, a Japanese brand:



For Christmas, maybe? What's in your tea pot today?

Grilled Cheese ...

... nothing else could ever take your place in my heart!

An L.A. friend tipped me off to The Grilled Cheese Truck, a mobile effort to bring grilled cheese into the world.




I have not been able to try it, being roughly half the world away from the City of Angels, but that oozing cheese logo gives me satisfying hits of homeyness, melty cheese, and the lovely crispness of buttered and grilled bread.

Did you know Swedes do *not* eat grilled cheese sandwiches? They are an open-faced sandwich culture. It's true.

There's definitely a panini or two around here. First, there was the steak houses, then the burger joints, and then the cascades of muffins (cupcakes), could it be that Swedes will soon adopt the ever so savory grilled cheese sandwich? One can only hope.

Last word is, whoever thought of Cheesy Mac with BBQ pork and carmelized onions is officially my hero.

Maple Delicious

Now that it's fall/almost winter (here in Sweden, at least), I'm a regular consumer of hot chocolate. Though it may be my favorite way to warm up after a chilly walk outside, I'm beginning to also become a fan of the maple steamer. Nothing could be simpler, nor yummier.

Maple Steamer

1 c warm milk
1-2 t B grade maple syrup
2 pinches of cinnamon

Combine, and drink in good health!

Buttery Crumbs

This recipe comes from a Swedish institution called Vedholm in Stockholm.

When I was first introduced to the dish, I was amazed at the simplicity and the individual flavors enhancing the others, along with the textures.

I was also introduced to the idea of cooking fish for 10 minutes at the highest heat my oven goes up to.

Pike-perch Beaulieu adapted from Vedholm.

2 lbs pike-perch filet, or other firm white flesh fish like cod
1 stick of butter
1 cup of dry white wine
1 shallot finely minced
2 T of finely chopped parsley
2 egg yolks
1 c/100 grams of bread crumbs
salt and freshly ground pepper

Preheat the oven to 425 F/275 C.

Place filets in an oven friendly dish. Melt the butter. In a bowl combine bread crumbs with the butter, shallot, parsley, egg yolk, and salt and pepper.

Cover the filets with the mixture and then pour the wine around the filets.

Bake for ten minutes. Serve with boiled or steamed potatoes.

Serves 4-6.

Craving Pumpkin

Some Swedes asked me if pumpkins taste good. The answer is, "Yes!"

I need some pumpkin intake pronto. All inspired from The Boston Globe.

Judie's of Amherst

Many of my friends went back to Amherst for homecoming. I am fiercely jealous, but the leaves are also turning in Stockholm. And I'm drinking real apple cider by the liter-load. And, and, and. Though I haven't quite ventured as far as making apple cider donuts, I have remade one of my favorite dishes from Judie's a restaurant run by Judie.

Though the popovers are divine, as well is the apple butter, my favorite ran toward the roasted garlic crusted salmon with leek and portobello mushroom pasta in a buttery lemon-wine sauce.

However, my boyfriend hates both penne and mushrooms (unhappiness), so my recent obsession with orzo was indulged instead.

Roasted Garlic Salmon with Leek Orzo

2 heads of garlic
2 t olive oil
500 g of salmon filet (1 lb of salmon)
salt & pepper to taste

1 c orzo
1 leek white and pale green parts only sliced thinly
1 sploosh of dry vermouth
1 lemon
2 T butter
salt and pepper to taste

On a piece of aluminum foil, drizzle the garlic with olive oil, and wrap the garlic in the foil and roast at 200 C/400 F for 20 minutes depending on your stove. The garlic is roasted when it is looking a rich yellow brown and looks slightly translucent.

Mash the garlic into a paste. Pat dry your salmon fillet and sprinkle salt and freshly ground black pepper on it. Then evenly spread the roasted garlic paste on the top. Roast for 15-20 minutes appropriate to how thick the filet is (check if the salmon is flaking) at 200 C/400 F.

Boil water for the orzo and prepare according to instructions. Melt 2 Tb of butter in a pan and saute the leek for five minutes. When the leek looks wilted add a sploosh of dry vermouth, and let the alcohol cook off.

Drain the orzo well and combine it with the wilted leeks and the juice of half a lemon. Serve alongside the roasted garlic crusted salmon with additional lemon slices on the side if desired.

Food rules!

Michael Pollan highlighted some rules for eating since he famously has been quoted for saying, "Eat food, not too much, mostly vegetables."

He welcomed suggestions for eating well. I'm particularly struck by the Japanese home cook's credo of the five colors, five preparations, and five flavors. I've recently added pickled vegetables to my Asian meals, and it does add another dimension.

I liked also ending with fruit. I didn't realize it was also an Italian habit, but in my family we always end with that light sweet note. It works as a signal that the meal is finished.

Noriwich

No, it's not a city in England, or district, or county. It's a Nori (toasted seaweed) Sandwich.


Sometimes, when you've got all the right ingredients, magic happens. I had totally forgotten about my favorite onigiri (rice ball with filling) from Shibuya. It was a nori-sandwich with teriyaki chicken, and lo and behold, last night I made soy sauce chicken.

I also had bought some toasted seaweed called kim -- it's Korean style toasted seaweed brushed with salt and sesame seed oil. I had leftover rice, leftover teriyaki style chicken, Japanese mayonnaise, slivers of pickled mustard greens and salad.

Teriyaki Noriwich

1 sheet of nori or kim
1/2 c cooked rice at room temperature
1/4 c teriyaki chicken in pieces
a drizzle of Japanese mayonnaise
a drizzle of teriyaki sauce (optional)
slivers of pickled mustard greens (also optional)
several leaves of salad

I just laid out the ingredients as shown above and then closed it more like a pita and cut it into three sections. Lamentably, the noriwiches were not the most stable. I think using regular sushi nori is more stable, but kim is more flavorful.

Sproutilicious

Did you know sprouts are healthier than the actual vegetable or bean, in this case, that springs from it?



I remember countless late afternoons where my mom made me snap the ends off the mung bean sprouts. The bottom of the mung bean sprout is where the root used to be settled in the earth and a slight brown color. "Why do we have to do it?" my sister and I used to complain.

"Because," replied my mother, as many weary mothers will easily identify with not needing to explain their actions.

Turns out, when you blanch your mungbeans as in this recipe, the brown parts look translucent brown instead of the very pleasant translucent white.

Now blanching vegetables is very simple. The basic idea is to quick-cook them. So first you immerse them in boiling water for the proscribed amount of time (varies from vegetable to vegetable), and then you put them into a cold water bath to stop the cooking. Both steps are essential. You kinda wonder why even bother when mung bean sprouts are so crispy and fresh tasting on their own. In this case, blanching them lets the marinade soak into them much better. In other kim chi recipes they have had me salt them, but I think I might try blanching them next time as well.



Fantastic Mung Bean Sprouts tossed in Rice Vinegar and Sesame Oil

1 1/2 cup mung bean sprouts
1 drizzle of sesame seed oil
1 t sesame seeds
1 1/2 inch (approx 1 cm) coin of ginger peeled and in slivers
1 T soy sauce
1 T rice vinegar

Snap off the roots of all your mung bean sprouts. Children are especially useful for this task. Boil water and place mung bean sprouts in a bowl and cover them with boiling water for one minute. Drain the sprouts in a colander and run cold water over them.

In a bowl combine the rest of the ingredients and toss the sprouts in them.

The fantastic thing about this recipe is that it can be served as a starter or a vegetable side dish. You don't have to worry about it cooling because it's supposed to be served at room temperature.

The Parisian v Sicilian smackdown

After acquainting myself with as many foodie recommendations possible, my boyfriend and I went to Paris for a long weekend.

I cajoled him into visiting Berthillon. I had already my flavors rehearsed too, salt caramel and chocolate. What is this salt caramel craze sweeping Paris? I don't know, but I like it!

While standing in line I also saw that they had Mirabelle plum sorbet -- Mirabelle is a particularly adorable tiny yellow and blush variety of plum that is exceedingly sweet. So I asked my boyfriend to order that one separately.

And lo and behold, the couple in front of us asked for their luxury French ice cream ... in a giant macaron! Having had the same phenomenon happen to us in Agrigento (they asked for their gelato in a brioche), I made my boyfriend order the sorbet in a pistachio macaron.

The results? Turns out that the macaron ice cream sandwich was merely pleasant, not as fulfilling as a brioche with gelato, but that might have been the flavor combination choice. Next time I make macarons, I'll try again. I could think a nice raspberry flavored one might work, or a chocolate macaron with chocolate ice cream. It's a hand held treat.

However, the salt caramel ice cream was every bit as good as promised. Once you get to the tiny isle that Berthillon, walk past every single one of the cafes which say they have Berthillon ice cream (glaces) because the Berthillon shop is farther down and has the widest assortment of flavors. I almost missed out on salt caramel ice cream because we were deceived and it was a hot sunny day in Paris.



In other Parisian notes Laduree needs no further recommendation, but the salt caramel macarons were also divine!

Cauli-wonderful

Food has fads too, you know. You can scarcely go out anywhere without some cauliflower puree peeking out from under your meat of choice.

Fall has come around the corner, and though we're enjoying a bit of an Indian summer, the evenings are quite chilly.



That is to say ... cauliflower plus soup = perfection. Give cauliflower a chance!

For one of the easiest and comforting soups, (and fastest) look no further.

Cream of Cauliflower Soup

1 head cauliflower chopped
1 leek chopped using only the white and pale green parts
4 small potatoes peeled and large diced
6 cups chicken or vegetarian broth (I normally cover with water and add two broth cubes)
1 T butter
1 bay leaf
1 t dried thyme or 1/2 t fresh thyme leaves
1/2 c cream or whole milk

salt and ground freshly ground white pepper to taste

an immersion blender

In a large pot, melt the butter and add the leeks. Saute until the leeks are softened and add the chopped cauliflower, and potatoes along with the bay leaf and thyme. Combine and stir for a moment, and then add the chicken broth.

Bring to a boil and simmer for half an hour. Use the immersion blender in the pot until all is creamy, and add the cream or whole milk, and then season with salt and freshly ground white pepper.

Serve with the best levain/crusty sourdough bread you can find.

Golden Plum Jam

There is scarcely a better pleasure in the world than a fresh sun-ripened golden plum eaten right off the tree. I find them superior to the purple ones, but haven't had the pleasure of a Mirabelle plum to compare it to. I have had, on the other hand, Mirabelle plum jam and it is divine. They must do something secret to it.



In the picture you can see that I also love Swedish butter so much I don't even bother to spread it correctly or wait until it softens. I just make my peace with unevenly spread butter, it's still fantastic.

However, this plum jam I made from the excess plums has that fresh plum taste in every mouthful! It's incredible ... there is jam, and then there is jam!



The other weekend we had been booked to go to a wedding, but I still insisted we spend the day before going out to the country house because I knew all the plums would be ready. And they were a bit over-ready. Though hesitant to make jam with very ripe plums (there had been a lot of rainfall too hence the chanterelles), I went ahead anyway.

What I wanted to keep the most was the golden color. It's so pleasing to the eye. I peeled and pitted all the plums and even squeezed some lemon juice on them to try to keep the color fresh. Then I blended them with a immersion blender, and boiled them for about five minutes with some "jam sugar" sugar that already has pectin in it. The ratio for low sugar jams is 2:1 (fruit:sugar). However, I just added sugar until I was satisfied with the taste. (Note, if you want the color to stay yellow, don't add any browning parts!)

I sterilized my old jars and lids with boiling water, but I'm a bit paranoid so they're all going into the fridge.

The jam turned out slightly like a jelly because of the high water content, and in the future I'll try to make plum jam a week earlier before they start getting overripe, but, all in all, I am pleased to discover that jam making is actually quite easy. It does take time to peel and pit all the plums, but, it is a bit meditative. And though nothing beats eating golden plums off the tree on a sunny day, a spoonful of this jam is like all of that concentrated in one delicious bite.

Sweden.se

Published!

Found!

Some people have started to ask me about mushroom hunting tips. However, when it comes to chanterelles it's both visual acuity and a propensity to hide your treasure trove and not telling *anyone* where it is.

Chanterelles are these lovely fragrant mushrooms which are easily positively identified. When it comes to mushroom hunting, only positively identify. Most mushroom species are poisonous or inedible so unless you're a mycologist the hobby hunter only needs to learn a handful of the best tasting mushrooms and ones that might be mistaken for them.

Chanterelles are highly prized for their taste. They're also such a visually beautiful mushroom, in my eyes.

With chanterelles, they often come back every year in the same spot. Imagine my delight when I found a very well hidden secluded spot for chanterelles. There are fall and summer chanterelles, so there's no use checking back in former spots out of season.

I had been hesitant, but optimistic, when I went out to check my super secret spot to which I've only told my boyfriend because he hates mushrooms, and there was my bounteous crop. I can't wait for the next rainfall to check again.

He asked me this morning if they tasted better than chanterelles I've bought at the market, and the answer is, of course!

Life's Little Luxuries

There are two luxuries I've been recently introduced to at two separate restaurants -- Lux, the Michelin star rated restaurant on Lilla Essingen, and Rolfs Kök on Tegenergatan 41. One costs $129/lb and one costs free, kinda.



Lomo iberico bellota is made from acorn-fed Iberico pigs with an exquisite taste that is both delicately smokey and sweet. At Rolfs Kök you can order 30 grams of the stuff. It melts on your tongue. They presented it as wafer thing slices. This makes me believe I need to drive down to Spain and do some private importing myself!


Photo by Sean Dreilinger

The second is something you can find for free. Fresh hazelnuts. They sprinkled them over a dish we were eating and the light crunch of the hazelnuts was so heady. I had never tasted a nut that was so fresh before. Hazelnuts grow on bushes here in Sweden, and I've had them pointed out to me before, but I'm going to have to investigate if such a delicacy grows wild for the taking.